KELTA ASSZONYOK RÓMAI HÖLGYEK

Átírás

1 KELTA ASSZONYOK RÓMAI HÖLGYEK Celtic Women Roman Ladies * Idõszaki kiállítás a BTM Aquincumi Múzeumában Temporary exhibition in Aquincum Museum május október Budapest, 2002

2 A kiállítás: Forgatókönyv, szövegek: MADARASSY ORSOLYA, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA A viseletrekonstrukciókat készítették: CSIKY LÓRÁNT, LACZAY GÉZÁNÉ, PINTÉR PIROSKA, SZÕCS ANNA, OKA ILDIKÓ Fotó: KOMJÁTHY PÉTER, OKA ILDIKÓ Grafika, látványterv: CSERNUS ERZSÉBET, KARDOS ÁRPÁD Tabló: CSERNUS ERZSÉBET Tablószöveg és feliratok fordítása: ALICE M. CHOYKE, KOLOZSVÁRI KRISZTIÁN A kísérõ kiadvány: Szerkesztés: SZU ANNAMÁRIA A szövegeket és a katalógust készítették: MADARASSY ORSOLYA, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA Fotó: KOMJÁTHY PÉTER, OKA ILDIKÓ, SZU ANNAMÁRIA Nyomdai elõkészítés: KOLOZSVÁRI KRISZTIÁN Köszönjük önkéntes modelljeink türelmes segítségét: ÁBRAHÁM SZABINA, BESENYEI KINGA, BESZÉDES JÓZSEF, HUNYADI ÁGNES, KÕVÁGÓ DÁNIEL, LACZKÓ MARIANN, LASSÁNYI GÁBOR MAGYAR MYRTILL, MAJCHER MELINDA, MAJCHER MÓNIKA, NÁDAI KINGA, SZU GABRIELLA, TÉZER ZITA AQUINCUMI MÚZEUM A katalógus a Budapest Fõvárosi Közgyûlés Kulturális Bizottság Közmûvelõdési és Tudományos Alapja támogatásával valósult meg. Budapesti Történeti Múzeum, Felelõs kiadó: Dr. Bodó Sándor, fõigazgató

3 TARTALOM Bevezetõ Történeti háttér Festett sírkövek és színes ruhák Nyersanyagtól a szõttesig A római hölgy Katonák és polgárok A kelta nõi viselet A viselet maradó emlékei Aquincumi textilleletek Általános irodalom A kõemlékek katalógusa Irodalomjegyzék Contents Preface Historical Background Painted Gravestones Dyed Clos From Raw Materials to Weaving The Roman Lady Soldiers Citizens The Celtic Woman Dress Costume of Celtic Women The Survived Remains of Costumes General References Catalogue of Stone Monuments References Részlet a Kelta asszonyok Római hölgyek c. kiállításból / Detail of exhibition Celtic Women Roman Ladies

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5 A régészet a tárgyakon keresztül mutatja be az embert, s az emberek mögött a történelmet. A részletekbõl következtet az egészre, hiszen a tárgyak többsége az idõk folyamán megsemmisült. A házaknak csak az alapfalai maradtak meg, a háztartás edénykészletébõl csak néhány cserépdarab, a bútorokból csak a díszítések, magából az emberbõl pedig legfeljebb csak a csontváz. A viseletbõl éppen a textília pusztult el, s a temetõk feltárásaiból csak az egykori ruha kiegészítõi, az ékszerek, ruhakapcsoló tûk, övcsatok kerülnek elõ. A kõszobrászat alkotásai azonban, néha sérülten ugyan de legtöbbször eredeti szépségükben élték túl az elmúlt évszázadokat. Az Aquincumi Múzeum sírkövein és sírszobrain ma is megcsodálhatjuk az egykor itt élt emberek arcát, alakját, ruházatát. Pannoniában így Aquincumban is a római hódítás nyomán, a Kr. u. 1. századtól kezdve állítottak az elhunytak számára sírköveket. Ezek a sírkövek római kõfaragómûhelyben készültek, de megtalálhatjuk rajtuk mind a rómaiak ábrázolását, mind azok portréit, akik nevükben is, viseletükben is a helyi kelta lakossághoz tartoztak. Kiállításunk e viseletek rekonstrukcióit mutatta be. Munkánk során a Római Birodalom más provinciáiból kerestünk párhuzamokat az aquincumi kõtár gyakran töredékes, néha pedig erõsen stilizált ábrázolásaihoz, így tudtuk ezeket pontosabban értelmezni. Fõleg a színesebb, változatosabb, dekoratívabb nõi ruhákkal foglalkoztunk, de a férfiak és a gyermekek viseletét is tárgyaljuk. Bemutatott ruháink római kori irodalmi források, aquincumi régészeti leletek, néprajzi analógiák és a kísérleti régészet eredményeinek szintéziseként korabeli módszerek alapján készültek: az antik forrásokban felsorolt növényi festékekkel festve, kézzel font len-, gyapjú- és selyemfonálból, kézi szövéssel és kézi varrással. Ahol az eszközök, alapanyagok és ruhadarabok latin nevét nem ismertük, ott a mai elnevezést használtuk. Mind a kiállítással, mind jelen ismertetõnkkel azt igyekeztünk megmutatni, hogy a régészet tudománya laikusok számára sem értetlen száraz adathalmaz. Hiszen a kétezer évvel ezelõtti ember és a mai ember közt nincs is akkora távolság. A kétezer évvel ezelõtti asszony ugyanúgy piacra járt, ebédet fõzött, gyermeket dajkált, ellátta házastársát, családját, s ünnepi alkalmakra éppúgy, mint ma, lehetõségeihez mérten a legújabb divatú ruhában, frizurával, ékszerekkel jelent meg. Archaeology is investigating Man with aid of his Archaeological Research in Aquincum objects History behind m. It needs to deduce from Archaeology details to studies whole, ancient as people overwhelming through majority developments objects in have ir been material destroyed culture. during Archaeologists past must cen- of turies. deduce Only facts from basements details of as houses overwhelming have been majority of a everyday few pottery-fragments objects from of past ancient have households been de- survived, stroyed as for over man himself centuries. no more Foundations than his skeleton. of houses Hardly survived, any furniture a few ceramic rar shards ir, decoration as for have people sur- have vived. mselves, Unfortunately no more textile than ir materials bare bones. of costume Hardly have any been furniture rotted has away survived with during exception explorations of some of buryingplaces decorative elements. merely accessories Textiles, of unfortunately, ancient garments have usually that is rotted away. Excavations in cemeteries reveal merely jewellery, clothing pins belt buckles is having come accessories for ancient garments, jewellery, clothing pins belt buckles. Stone sculptures, however, to light. However, sculpture objects of stone, sometimes being although damaged sometimes though, damaged, have more are more often likely been to endured survive in in ir ir original original beauty. beautiful One form. can admire In in Aquincum Aquincum Mu- Museum (Budapest, faces; Hungary) figures one costume can admire of people faces once as living well as here depicted figures on costumes gravestones of people, who cemetery once statues. inhabited this territory, as y are depicted on grave steles From cemetery AD 1st statues. century after Roman conquest y After erected gravestones Roman conquest honouring of Pannonia deceased in in AD territory 1st century, of Pannonia Romans style grave Aquincum steles as honouring well. These stones deceased had were been erected, made in in Roman many places stone carvers in empire workshops including but Aquincum. one can find Although toger se with descriptions Romanised stone about Roman carvers people workshops also it is also portraits possible of those to find with portraits ir names of people we costume know who were were Eraviscan belonging Celts to based Eraviscus on Celts. names Our exhibition details of has ir displayed dress. Reconstructions merely reconstruction of se clos of those can dresses. be found During in our our exhibition. work we During were course of our research for exhibit we sought seeking for parallels between remains coming from parallels between preserved textile remains from or provinces of Roman Empire those of or Roman provinces often fragmentary often sometimes fragmentary heavily stylized sometimes depictions strongly carved on stylised stone descriptions monuments of in Aquincum Aquincum lapidary, lapidary. thus In we this were manner able to we define came se to an understing remains more precisely. of what We ancient are now cloth- discussing may mainly have looked more like. coloured, Emphasis more was diversified placed on reconstructing woman dresses more colourful, but costume diverse of men decorated chil- decorative dren dresses are of also women mentioned. although costumes worn by men The children ensembles were of also clothings examined. on view at present have been The created ensemble on of basis clothing of ancient seen in methods exhibition as a synsis been manufactured of Roman literary using origin, traditional excavation methods finds described from has Aquincum, Roman literary ethnological sources, analogies on basis of archaeological results of present finds from day Aquincum, experimental ethnographic archaeology. analogies Their material latest results h-loom from experimental woven, sewed archaeology. by h out The from materials flax, are wool were h-woven, silk threads sewn sometimes by h with spun linen by h fibre, silk tinted with dye plants listed in antique literary sources. We wool threads, some of which were also h-spun coloured using dye plants mentioned in ancient sources. We use modern names of instruments, materials use current definition of instruments, base materials of garments where Latin names could not been found. garments where Latin names could not be found. By By establishing putting on an our exhibition exhibition publishing publishing this this study study we we are are trying trying to to confirm show that archaeology science of need archaeology not be is a not boring a boring accumulation accumulation of facts, of unavailable facts, which to is non-professionals. laic, We believe eir. We that believe re is that not re as much is not distance so much as unavailable for distance one thinks between modern man of people today those one living of two thous years ago. A woman of those days went to market, Women was in cooking those days dling went to her market, children, cooked looked after dled her husb ir children family on in ir same knees. way They as her cared modern for ir associate husbs does it today. families Additionally, in same on way fiesta-days, as ir according modern counterparts to her means do she today. appeared What is in more, public on places feastdays, most according fashionable to ir dresses, means, with y appeared most attractive in public in her hair-do places in ir jewellery. most fashionable dresses, with most attractive hair-do jewellery y could afford. 5

6 Historical Historical Background background During AD 1st century Celtic Eraviscus During AD 1st century, Eraviscus Celts tribe lived in middle part Norast lived in mid- north-eastern Transdanubia part of Transdanubia as a result in territory what was later to be Aquincum. (Fig.1) where Aquincum was later to be founded. (Fig. l) Their settlements have been discovered on both Their settlements have been discovered on both sides of Danube on slopes of sides of Danube, on slopes of surrounding hills a fortified centre of m have surrounding hills. Their fortified central settlement (oppidum) has been excavated on Gellért been excavated on Gellért-hill. According to Hill in Budapest. Based on latest reading of latest analysing historical sources, Roman historical sources, it appears that Roman occupation of later province Pannonia took occupation of future province of Pannonia place gradually. From end of AD 1st century, conquering Celtic Noricum Transdanu- took place gradually. From end of AD 1st century conquest of Celtic Noricum bia continued peacefully lacking much violence Transdanubia continued peacefully without much after long-term wars along Dráva-Száva violence or long-lasting wars such as occurred in terrain, this historical process ended in a rar region between Drava Sava rivers. peaceful incorporation of Eraviscus tribe s This process ended in Eraviscus tribal ls l. The Eraviscus way of life hardly deferred being rar peacefully incorporated into Roman Empire. The Eraviscan way of life continued from ir earlier one during AD 1st century, but after Roman military conquest Celts with barely any change during AD 1st century, but after this peaceful conquest Celts quickly adapted mselves to taste needs of newcomers. Romanisation was going on adapted mselves quickly to tastes rapidly to such an extent that by middle of needs of newcomers. Romanisation occurred century, whole area was eventually organised so quickly that by middle of century, during reign of Claudius (AD 41-54), whole into an independent province named Pannonia during reign of Claudius (AD 41 54). area was organized into independent province of Pannonia. The first military units were generally auxiliary cavalry troops (ala) ir reinforcement was The first military units were generally auxiliary managed by recruiting from local people. According to prevailing custom a soldier militating in cavalry troops (ala). These troops were reinforced by recruits from local population. The a local auxiliary troop (auxilia) was given Roman prevailing custom was that a soldier serving in a citizenship after his disarmament along with all local auxiliary troop (auxilia) was given Roman his family. By end of AD 1st century a citizenship along with his entire family after his legion was placed into Aquincum by discharge from army. By end of AD beginning of 2nd century, second 1st century, a legion was located in Aquincum third generation of those who got Roman citizenship after militating in an auxilia those who by beginning of 2nd century second third generations of those who had been were born Roman citizens have also been grown given Roman citizenship after serving as part in up. an auxiliary troop those who were born Roman citizens had matured. By end of 1st century entire limes was built up along Danube, a borderline of At end of 1st century entire limes Roman Empire. After Traian (98 117) had was built along Danube marked frontier of Roman Empire. After Trajan s reign reformed Roman army, legions were garrisoning Pannonia in place local Roman citizens completed army. As Romans settled in Aquin- (AD ) Roman army was reformed. Legions were garrisoned locally ir ranks cum for a long time, retofore auxiliary halftimbered constructions were replaced by more were complemented by Roman citizens. As Romans settled in Aquincum, former halftimbered constructions of auxiliary forts lasting stone-buildings. The legionary fortress (at present day Flórián-tér) had been central were replaced by more lasting stone-buildings. nucleus of a later ternal settlement unit The legionary fortress (at present day Florian Military Town (canabae) was built-up around this Square) became central nucleus of later for military families disarmed veterans. The settlement. The Military Town (canabae), inhabited by military families veterans, grew up Civil Town ( present day Aquincum Museum its surrounding) was built-up north of this around this settlement. The Civil Town (located military area it produced central living around Aquincum Museum) was constructed place for tribal Eraviscus aristocracy gained north of this military area. It was centre for Történeti háttér 1. kép: Az eraviscusok által lakott területek Pannoniában (Fitz. J. alapján) Fig. 1: The territory of Eravisci in Pannonia (after. J. Fitz) A Kr. e. 1. században a Dunántúl középsõ, északkeleti részén, így a késõbbi Aquincum területén is a kelták eraviscus törzse élt. (1. kép) Telepeiket a Duna partján és a környezõ hegyek lankáin, erõdített központjukat a Gellérgyen tárták fel. A korszak történeti forrásainak legfrissebb elemzése szerint a késõbbi Pannonia provincia római megszállása több szakaszban történt. A Kr. e. 1. század végétõl a noricumi és nyugat-dunántúli kelták békés, erõszakmentes meghódítása, majd a Dráva-Száva vidék hosszan tartó háborúi után ez a folyamat az eraviscus népcsoport területének viszonylag békés elfoglalásával zárult le. Az eraviscusok életmódja a Kr. u. 1. század folyamán alig különbözött a korábbitól, a római katonai megszállást követõen viszont gyorsan alkalmazkodtak az új telepesek ízléséhez és igényeihez. A század közepére a romanizáció már itt is elérte azt a mértéket, hogy Claudius (41-54) uralkodása alatt, Pannonia néven, önálló provinciává szervezhették. Az elsõ katonai alakulatok általában lovas segédcsapatok (ala) voltak, utánpótlásukat a helybéli lakosságból toborozták. A segédcsapatban (auxilia) szolgáló katona leszerelése után családjával együtt római polgárjogot kapott. Az 1. század végén már egy legiót helyeztek Aquincumba. A század végére, a 2. század elejére már a második-harmadik generáció szerezte meg auxiliaris katonáskodással a polgárjogot, s felnõttek azok is, akik már római polgárnak születtek. Az 1. század végére kiépült a Duna mentén a limes, a birodalmi határ. Traianus (98-117) hadseregreformja után a legiók egyhelyben állomásoztak, állományukat a helybéli római polgárokból egészítették ki. Mivel Aquincumban is álló tartózkodásra rendezkedtek be, az eddigi favázas, ideiglenes építkezéseket felváltották a maradóbb kõépületek. A város hármas települési egységének (2. kép) központi magja volt a legiótábor (a mai Flórián téren), eköré épült a katonaváros 6

7 (canabae) a katonacsaládok és a leszerelt veteránok számára. A katonai területtõl északra épült ki a polgárváros (a jelenlegi Aquincumi Múzeum és környéke), a római polgárjogot nyert eraviscus törzsi arisztokrácia és az idetelepült római polgárok központja. Aquincum a 2. század elején Pannonia Inferior (Alsó Pannonia) katonai és közigazgatási központja lett, a helytartó, a Legatus Augusti székhelye. Megépült a mai Óbudai szigeten a helytartói palota, a katonaváros északi részében pedig a közigazgatási negyed. A helytartó és kísérete Róma város legújabb divatját hozta magával, a Birodalom különbözõ provinciájából idetelepült polgárok és kereskedõk az általános római viseletet terjesztették el, a katonák egyenruhában jártak, a helybéli származású asszonyok pedig még sokáig megõrizték hagyományos kelta-eraviscus ruháikat. Hadrianus ( ) uralkodása alatt kapta meg a polgárváros a municipium rangot, ettõl kezdve saját önkormányzattal rendelkezhetett. A városi tanács, az ordo tagjai az eraviscus származású polgárokból kerültek ki. Az Antoninusok korának folyamatos, békés fejlõdése után a 170-es években, az elhúzódó markomann háborúk idején a település mintegy húsz évre felvonulási területté vált, a kereskedelem és a birodalmi hadseregellátás elsõsorban a Barbaricumban háborúzó csapatokra koncentrált, a luxuscikkek behozatala másodlagossá vált. A 2. század utolsó évtizedében Septimius Severus ( ) a pannoniai hadseregcsoport támogatásával nyerte el a császári trónt. Mivel a hadsereg egyre erõsebb politikai tényezõvé vált, intézkedéseivel a katonaságot állította maga mellé. Birodalomszerte ekkor kapták meg a canabaek a colonia statust, a közeli polgári települések pedig gyakran rangemelésben részesültek, így Aquincumban mind a polgárváros, mind a katonaváros colonia 2. kép: Aquincum hármas településszerkerkezete az eraviscus telepek megjelölésével lett. Fig. 22??? Aquincum fort surrounding Eraviscan settlements Roman citizenship for Roman civilians who tribal Eraviscan aristocracy who had been settled here. granted Roman citizenship for Roman civilians who settled here. In beginning of AD 2nd century Aquincum became military administrative centre of Pannonia Inferior (Lower Pannonia), At beginning of AD 2nd century, Aquincum became military administrative centre of Pannonia Inferior (Lower Panno- seat of governor, Legatus Augusti. They built up Governor s Palace on present day Óbudaisl administrative quarter in North nia) seat of governor, Legatus Augusti. The Governor s Palace was built on part of Military Town. The governor his Óbuda Isl administrative quarter was accompaniment brought forth with mselves established in norrn part of Military latest fashion of Rome City, in respect of Town. The governor his entourage brought settled civilians merchants coming from various provinces of Roman Empire y spread latest fashions from city of Rome helped to spread general Roman costume general Roman costume. Soldiers wore military traditions among settled civilians merchants uniform women of local origin preserved coming from various provinces. Women of local ir traditional Celtic-Eraviscus costume for yet origin, however, continued to wear traditional local dress for a long time after that while soldiers a long time. During rule of Hadrian (AD ) Civil Town was given rank of wore military uniforms. During rule of Hadrian (AD ), Civil Town was given municipium from this time on it had right to carry on an autonomous administration. Members of civil council, ordo, were elected rank of municipium from this time on it had right of autonomous administration. Members of civil council, ordo, were elected from among civilians of Eraviscus origin. In period of AD 170-ies, after a continuous from civilians of Eraviscus origin. peaceful development of Antonis era, during In AD 170 s, after continuous time of long-continued markomann wars this peaceful development of Antonin s era, this settlement became a military garing place for settlement became a military garing place nearly twenty years. Merchantry catering during Marcomannic wars for nearly twenty imperial army was concentrated mainly on years. Commerce was geared to catering for troops fighting at territory of Barbaricum troops of imperial army fighting in territory of Barbaricum. Importing luxury goods importing of luxuries became of second importance. became of secondary importance. In last decade of 2nd century it was In last decade of 2nd century, Septimus Severus (AD ) rose to power Septimus Severus (AD ) who by help of supporting Pannonian group of army with support of army in Pannonia. As obtained power in Rome. At any rate as army army grew in strength as a political factor, became stronger stronger a political factor new emperor wished to conciliate it. At this new Caesar conciliated it to his side. At this time time, canabae often acquired status of colonia within Empire. Settlements nearby were canabaes often acquired status of colonia along Empire, nearby settlements also also granted higher status. Thus, both Civil gained an increase of rank, consequently both Town Military Town in Aquincum became colonia. Civil Town Military Town in Aquincum turned to be colonia in same way. With substantial increases in wages, financial circumstances of population were much With pays increasing by sesquialterously population got into good financial circumstances improved. As a result, large-scale construction enough, refore large-scale construction works work could be initiated within town. Following contemporary construction techniques, could be started as a result in area of town. According to ancient contemporaneous privately owned buildings were rebuilt into construction techniques self-owned buildings comfortable structures. Homes were connected were developed into comforted, houses were connected directly to aqueducts so y replaced directly to aqueducts replacing community wells. Meanwhile, an increasing number of retofore generally used community-wells. houses made use of a floor-heating system to Meanwhile use of fire-pans was changed over replace braziers. With increase in prosperity applied arts began to flourish. This was by creating floor-heating system in more more houses. Ornamental arts started flourishing certainly case for stone sculptors. The on impact of increasing prosperity this majority also most beautiful objects in was case of stone sculptors workshops as Aquincum museum lapidary date to this period. It can be clearly seen from se remains well. The largest fraction at same time most beautiful objects of our lapidary can be 7

8 dated that to this general period. prosperity One can had come a great to impact conclusion on fashions on basis on of se quality remains of textiles. how greatly general The prosperity Emperor had Caracalla its effect (AD felt ) on fashion continued on quality his far s of textile politics materials. in AD 212 he Caesar gave Roman Caracalla citizenship (AD ) to all people continued born his far s free in politics Roman Empire. in AD 212 This he measure gave Roman did citizenship not have much to all of an people impact born on free objects in found whole territory in Aquincum, of Roman located Empire. as it was This on measure frontier. had not so The much emperor perceptible issued result a decree on objects two coming years to later light that in Aquincum, modified at border frontier-line, between than Pannonia it did two years Inferior later in AD Pannonia 212, when Superior. Caesar The modified political importance borderline of between Pannonia Pannonia Inferior grew Inferior unexpectedly Pannonia as it Superior. became a The province political with importance two legions. of Pannonia From this Inferior time onwards, grew unexpectedly governor s as it became position a province could with be filled two only legions by a person from this who time had on once governor s been a consul. position The could governor s only be filled palace by a person administrative having once been quarter a consul. were exped The governor s palace rebuilt following administrative latest luxurious quarter was being tastes. exped During rebuilt reign of this time Severine according dynasty, to more latest prevailing more inhabitants luxurious taste. came from At time Africa of reigning Eastern Severus provinces dynasty settled more in more Aquincum, inhabitants which coming also had from an Africa impact on Eastern local provinces fashions. settled (Cat. 37) in Aquincum this fact had its own In effect second felt on half fashion, of eir. 3rd century, (Cat. 37) barbarian In pressure second half in of Danube 3rd century area increased. barbarian pressure Dacia was intended surrendered for in Danube-environment AD 271 Pannonia became strengned one by of surrendering most insecure Dacia zones in AD 271 in Pannonia Empire. got This directly was into time one of of most socalled insecure zones soldier-emperors of Empire. when This members was time of of Pannonian-Illyricum so-called soldier-emperors army controlled when members all of Pannonian-Illyricumian key positions in imperial army politics. corps controlled Many of all emperors key positions visited of far-off imperial Aquincum politics in in order Rome. Many to calm of any emperors political visited tension, though far-off provisory Aquincum in advantages order to arrange gained any in this actual way political may have tension, quickly though evaporated. provisory The advantages feeling of gained life in in this this way period might is exemplified as well vanished in a rhyme quickly inscribed completely. on a sarcophagus The life feeling in Aquincum: of this period is composed by a rhyme inscribed on a sarcophagus in Aquincum Unstable, as it follows: crumbling, bitter-sweet, flitting fragile, alas, human life is capricious, Instable, end is decaying, dim, Fate may bitter-sweet, cast you hir flitting flimsy,alas yon for Fates human hang life is by astute, a hair. end is misty,fate may cast you hir re hung dangling by Destines (translation forever. by Jozsef Revay) (After József Révay s translation) By end of century, Diocletian (AD ) By end had of introduced century a Diocletianus new administrative system (AD ) introduced in in region. region With a new Pannonia administrative Inferior system. divided With into two Pannonia parts, Inferior Aquincum separated became into two military parts, Aquincum administrative became seat a of military administrative new province seat of Valeria. of new A special province, defensive Valeria. There system was was built established up this time on a particular left side defence of system Danube on Thus, left two side sections of Danube of from limes which are we located know within two strongholds modern Budapest. of limes-section The fort of belonging Trans Aquincum to modern was Budapest. located on One Pest of m side is Contra of Aquincum Danube. at Pest-side bridgehead of Erzsébet-híd of today or is A katonai zsold másfélszeresére emelésével a lakosság olyan anyagi körülmények közé került, hogy a város területén nagyszabású építkezések kezdõdhettek. A magánépületeket a korabeli technikának megfelelõen komfortosították, az addigi közkutak helyett a házakat közvetlenül csatlakoztatták rá a vízvezetékre, a hordozható parázstartók helyett egyre több épületet láttak el padlófûtéssel. A jólét hatására a díszítõmûvészetek is felvirágoztak, többek közt a kõfaragómûhelyek is. Ebbõl az idõbõl származik kõtárunk anyagának legnagyobb része is, egyszersmind legszebb darabjai. A kõemlékekbõl arra is következtetünk, hogyan érvényesült az általános prosperitás a divatban és a textíliák minõségében. Apja politikáját folytatta Caracalla ( ), aki 212-ben a Birodalom összes szabadon született lakosának megadta a római polgárjogot. Aquincumban, a határvidéken, ennek az intézkedésnek nem volt akkora a tárgyi anyagban tükrözõdõ hatása, mint mikor két év múlva, 214-ben Pannonia Superior és Inferior határát módosította. Pannonia Inferior politikai súlya megnövekedett, kétlegiós provinciává vált, a helytartói tisztet ezentúl csak consul-viselt személy töltte be. A helytartói palotát és a közigazgatási negyedet ekkor bõvítették ki és építették át a korabeli luxus legkorszerûbb igényeinek megfelelõen. A Severus dinasztia idején egyre több keleti és afrikai származású lakosa lett Aquincumnak, mely a divatban is éreztette hatását. (kat. 37.) A 3. század második felében erõsödött a Duna-vidékre irányuló barbár nyomás, 271-tõl, Dacia feladásával pedig már Pannonia is közvetlenül a veszélyeztetett zónába került. Ez az ún. katonacsászárok kora, mikor a birodalmi politika kulcspozíciójában a pannoniai-illyricumi hadseregcsoport állt. Az aktuális feszültség rendezéséért a császárok közül többen látogattak Aquincumba. A pillanatnyilag támadt elõnyök azonban gyorsan semmivé is válthattak. E korszak életérzését fogalmazza meg egy aquincumi szarkofág verses felirata is: Ingatag, omlatag és keserédes, röpke, törékeny, jaj, csalafinta az emberi élet, a vége homályos. Hány-vet a sors, és hajszálon himbálnak a Párkák. (Ford. Révay József) Diocletianus ( ) a század végén új közigazgatási rendszert vezetett be. Pannonia Inferiort két részre osztva Aquincum az új provincia, Valeria katonai kormányzásának lett székhelye. Ekkor építették ki a Duna bal partján azt a védmûrendszert, melynek a mai Budapest területén lévõ szakaszáról két erõd ismert: Contra Aquincum, a mai Erzsébet-híd pesti hídfõjénél, illetve Transaquincum a mai Árpád-híd pesti hídfõjéhez közel. Constantinus ( ) újra átszervezte a hadsereget és a védmûrendszert. Ekkor épült meg Aquincumban az a késõrómai erõd, mely a 2-3. századi legiótábort váltotta fel. Ebbe az erõdbe és környékére költözött a katonaság, sõt a polgári lakosság nagy része is. A 4. század közepétõl a népvándorlás hullámaival érkezett népcsoportok 8

9 ostromolták a provinciát, majd egy részük Róma szövetségeseként (foederati) védte a határvidéket. Mint a Birodalomba újonnan betelepült népcsoport, öltözékükben erõsen hangsúlyozták a római elemeket, de az õsi sztyeppei stílus ízlésvilágát is megõrizték. Erre elsõsorban viseletük maradó emlékeibõl következtetünk, mivel ebbõl a korszakból már nem maradt ránk ábrázolás, csak néhány textilszál. MODERN IRODALOM/MODERN LITERATURE: Aquincum Augusta Raurica. Élet a Római Birodalom két városában. Kiállításvezetõ. Basel, Das römische Budapest. Ausstellungskatalog. Münster, Fitz J.: Pannonia születése. Budapest, Transaquincum close to Pest-side bridgehead of Constantine current Árpád-híd. (AD ) reformed army Constantine (AD whole ) military reformed defence system army once again. whole At military that time defence late system Roman again. fort It was was that built, time transforming when a fort of legionary late-roman fortress period was from built changing 3rd century. over Most a legionary of Aquincum fortress of 2nd3rd army century. civilian Into this population stronghold moved its into surroundings this stronghold moved greatest its surroundings. part of Aquincum From army middle of even 4th those century, of waves civilian of population. new peoples From - part middle of of so-called 4th Great century Migration new peoplesarrived - initially attacked on waves Pannonia of Great but after Migrationwas a while attacking some of Pannonia m stayed but after as allies a while of Rome some (foederati) part of m who defending being as allies frontier. of The Rome newly (foederati) settled were tribes defending of various origins frontier-country. took up Roman The style newly settled elements tribes of attire of differing but y origin also preserved strongly emphasised ir sophisticated Roman-style ancient elements steppe of tastes, attire demonstrated in Empire but primarily y preserved by preserved ir sophisticated remains of ancient ir clothing. steppe-taste No depictions as well. It of is ir primarily costumes nondecayed from this remains period of were ir found clothing except that proves for some this allegation fabric threads. because no depictions of ir costume have come to light from this period excepted some fabric-thread. 9

10 Painted Gravestones Dyed Clos Painted grave steles dyed clos We have known Roman colour-scale of pieces We of know clos about from antique range of literary colours sources, used frescoes, on Roman differing clos type from of wall literary paintings sources, frescoes, fabric. varying Scraps types of paint of wall left on paintings stone sculptures fab- finds of may ric greatly finds. Scraps help researchers of paint preserved work for on contrary stone to sculptures accepted also popular greatly help opinion researchers se remains work had as, originally contrary been to popular painted, though opinion, by se now ir remains materials were survived originally only painted. traces. However, One only can dye make traces conclusions of se from colours traces survive. of left One paints can simply only to draw feature conclusions of depicted about costume s colour of colour, a piece for stones of dress were depicted commonly from painted se traces by earn as se pigments stones while were fabrics commonly were dyed painted mainly with by earn materials pigments of plant origin. while We fabrics know were techniques dyed using dye mainly materials vegetable written dyes. in We fullest know detail about owing dying to Plini techniques Elder s dye book materials (Fig. 3). in The detail predominantly to used books existing by Pliny dye plants Elder were (Fig. as 3). follows: The thanks red most madder commonly (Rubia used tinctoria) plants were: violet alkanna (Alkanna Red tinctoria) - madder yellow (Rubia saffron tinctoria); (Carthamus violet tinctorius) - alkanet dyer s (Alkanna greenweed tinctoria); (Reseda yellow luteola) - safflower (Genista (Carthamus tinctoria) tinctorius), brown dyer s walnut-leaf rocket broom (Juglans (Reseda regia) luteola), blue dyer s woad greenwood (Isatis tinctoria) (Genista anil (Indigofera tinctoria); suffruticosa) brown - walnut-leaf black oak-apple (Juglans regia); (Quercus blue robus) - woad purple (Isatis purple-fish tinctoria), (Murex anil (Indigofera braris, Purpura) suffruticosa); coccid black (Dactylopius - oakapple coccus) (Amphibolips They confluenta). created For green purple colour y by used covering purpleshellfish over a (Murex yellow-dyed braris, cloth. Purple Purpura was lapil- con- blue paint sidered lus) most coccid distinguished (Dactylopius colour coccus). in Rome Green so as was poets created (like Ovid by covering or Horace) a yellow-dyed often mentioned cloth it while with describing a blue. Purple wealthy was ladies considered wear as most purple distinguished colour of colour Tyros. in According Rome so to poets contemporaneous as Ovid sources, or Horace) ancient often mentioned purple dye it material while (such manufactured describing wealthy from purple-fish ladies dress was as a luxurious purple colour but even of Tyros. coccid was According expensive to enough. period product, As sources, overwhelming ancient majority purple dye of civilians material could obtained afford from this luxury purple-shellfish y dyed over was red a luxurious cloths by not blue product, or violet but even approached coccid was expensive. desired shade As in this overwhelming way (Plini majority Elder). of By civilians using natural could colouring not afford agents this linen luxury cloth y could dyed not red be over painted with only blue whitened or violet because gained y were desired not able shade to tint se this fabric way (Pliny vivid colours Elder). acceptably It is not possible to ancient to taste, produce conversely vivid dying fabric wool colours demed silk produced by fiery ancient taste lively using colours. natural In dyes most on cases linen cloth. cleanwashed However, raw wool was silk dyed produce before fiery spinning lively but shades. occasionally In most y cases, painted clean threads washed m- raw (Cat. 24) selves wool or was dyed finished before woven spinning textile. (Cat. They 24) were but soaking occasionally paint agents y died in water yarn for a itself while or even fabrics were finished boiled fabric. out in They this paint-liquid soaked dye prepared agents in in this water way. for So a as while ir colours fabrics should were be more lasting boiled materials in resulting were also solution. dipped To in tartaric, make ir aluminous, colours ferrous more or lasting, coppered materials liquids. In were Pannonia also re dipped were in no tartaric, or aluminous, known indigenous ferrous or plants coppered liquids. such In colouring Pannonia, agents aside as from for madder example containing madder or anil, or re anil. were In no early or days known of Pannonia indigenous luxurious plants dye containing plants or threads such dying dyed agents. by Early methods in Festett sírkövek és színes ruhák A római ruhadarabok színskáláját antik forrásokból, falfestményekbõl és textilleletekbõl ismerjük. Segítséget jelentnek a kõábrázolásokon megmaradt festéknyomok, hiszen a köztudattal ellentétben ezek az emlékek eredetileg festve voltak, de színük mára csak nyomokban maradt meg. (kat. 24., kat. 52.) A festéknyomokból az ábrázolt ruha színének csak a jellegére következtetünk, hiszen a köveket általában földfestékkel festették, a textilt pedig fõleg növényi anyagokkal színezték. A festõanyagokat és a textilfestés technikáját legrészletesebben az idõsebb Plinius leírásából ismerjük. (3. kép) A korabeli festõanyagok a következõk voltak: vörös: - festõbuzér (Rubia tinctoria) lila: - báránypirosító (Alcanna tinctoria) sárga: - parasztsáfrány (Carthamus tinctorius) - festõrezeda (Reseda luteola) - festõrekettye (Genista tinctoria) barna: - diófalevél (Juglans regia) kék: - festõcsülleng (Ysatis tinctoria) - indigó (Indigofera tinctoria) fekete: - tölgyfagubacs (Quercus robus) bíbor: - bíborcsiga (Drupidae) - bíbortetû (Dactylopius coccus) A zöld színt a sárgára festett textil kékkel való átfestésével állították elõ. 3. kép: Természetes festõanyagok és az elérhetõ színskála Fig. 3: Natural dying materials color spectrum 10

11 A legelõkelõbb színnek a bíbort tartották, ahogy a római költõk (pl. Ovidius vagy Horatius) a gazdag hölgyek viseletén legtöbbször a tyrosi bíbor színt említik. A források szerint az eredeti, bíborcsigából elõállított festék drága volt, de még a bíbortetû is igen költségesnek számított. Mivel a többség ezt nem tudta megfizetni, ezért vörös textileket kékkel vagy lilával festettek át, így közelítették meg a kívánt árnyalatot (Plinius). A lenvásznat csak fehérítették, mivel ezt az anyagot nem lehet a természetes színezõanyagokkal az ókori ízlésnek megfelelõ élénk színekre megfesteni, a gyapjú és a selyem festése viszont tüzes, élõ színeket eredményez. Általában a tisztára mosott nyersanyagot festették meg fonás elõtt (kat. 24.), ritkábban a fonalat, vagy pedig a kész szövetet. A festõanyagokat vízbe áztatták, s az így elkészített festõlében fõzték ki a textíliákat. Vasas, rezes, borköves vagy timsós folyadékokban is pácolták, hogy színük tartós legyen. Pannoniában nem volt õshonos több, ismert festõnövény, mint pl. a festõbuzér vagy az indigó. Ezeket a festõanyagokat, vagy az ezekkel megfestett fonalakat eleinte csak kereskedõktõl lehetett megvásárolni, a helyben is termõ festõnövények adta színeket viszont kezdettõl fogva alkalmazták. Olcsó textíliához olcsóbb, drága textíliához drágább festõanyagokat használtak. mentioned could only be bought directly from merchants, history but of Pannonia, local people luxurious applied dye colours plants or by using yarns given dyed native by plants methods from mentioned very beginning. could be According bought only to ir directly needs from y merchants added cheap although dying agents local to people cheaper applied cloths colours more using expensive available ones to native fine plants sumptuous from fabrics. very beginning. Based on ir needs, y used cheap dying agents on cheaper cloths more expensive ones on fine, sumptuous fabrics. ANTIK FORRÁSOK/ANTIQUE REFERENCES: Homérosz: Odüsszeia. VII, Horatius: Ódák. II, 16, 35-37; II, 18, 7-8; IV, 13, Martialis: Epigrammák. Az utánzóról Ovidius: Átváltozások. VI, Plinius: Naturlis Historiae. XXI, 170; XXII, 3, 480 MODERN IRODALOM/MODERN REFERENCES: CIBA Rundschau. Textilien in biblischer Zeit. 1968/2 p Kemendi Á.: Festõnövények. Budapest, Póczy K.: Újabb aquincumi múmiasír. In: Archaeologiai Értesítõ 91 (1964) p Sebesta, J. L.: Tunica Ralla, Tunica Spissa: The Colors Textiles of Roman Costumes. In: The World of Roman Costume. [ed. Sebesta, J. L.-Bonafante, L.] Wisconsin, 1994, p

12 From Raw Materials to Weaving From raw materials to weaving Raw Materials Traditional Raw Materials Roman clothing applied linen woollen-cloth Traditional in most Roman cases. clothing One can was frequently mostly see made druggets from linen on artistic wool. descriptions One can frequently in Aquincum, see that cloaks is thick on artistic pieces depictions of clos adjusted in Aquincum, to Pannonian warm clothing climate adapted circumstances, to Pannonia sewn climate, from smooth-looking sewn from smooth weavings, looking but fabric we have although also found de- descriptions of thinner, finer cloths. also exist. The The most most important important base material was in use wool was wool (Lana). (lana). Our We knowledge have known of it it comes not only not only from antique from annotations written sources but but also also from from results of results present of day modern material-explorations analyses of Roman of fabrics. cloths Sheep derived from breeding Roman methods period, became that specialized sheep-breeding within methods a relatively had short been period. specified Farmers in a relatively bred several short period. breeds They of sheep bred which more races produced of sheep both short giving short long, long, thin thin thick thick wool woollen fibres. Moreover, se se breeds races were had crossbred been crossed many at times. great thread, moreover many According times. According to Pliny to Plini Elder, fleece Elder fleece was was trimmed being trimmed during in springtime moulting using without clipper-scissors any hardship or by y clipper-scissors pulled it out causing or y snapped no pain it to causing animals no pain at to all. animals at all. Flax Flax (linum) (Linum) is growing grows even in at colder, norrern regions regions. It it was had cultivated been cultivated in in territory territory of Pannonia of Pannonia long long before before arrival Roman s of arrival. Romans. We also Pliny know also from describes Plini s description labour-intensive working process process needed of to preparing prepare flax-fibres. fibres. long The The plant plant itself is was soaked being in soaked water in water n n it was fibres broken broken by various by various means means. of crushing In end, in boon end (superfluous y combed material) out of it is combed superfluous out so materials only crushed long, fine into fibres boon remain. solely long fine Silk fibres (Serica) were left was behind. considered a unique Silk luxury (serica) good. was Silk considered thread or a finished unique luxury cloth good. came Silk to thread Roman or finished Empire cloth from arrived China from via China to famous Roman Silk Road. Empire When on famous cloth Silky fell Way apart it would it was be regularly re-woven disintegrated, with less valuable n woven flax fibres. again According mixed by to written cheaper sources flax-fibres. even According clos of to ladies literary of note sources were even commonly notable made lady s pieces from of a semi-silk clos were called commonly cosi. made from a semi-silk Silk named fibre finds cosi. have only survived in Pannonia from 4th 4th century. has Cotton silk fabric-finds (Gossi- Only been pium), survived similarly in to region silk, was of Pannonia. also expensive. Similarly This plant, to a silk, native cotton of East (gossipium) India, does was not definitely grow expensive at all in too. This climate plant of native Pannonia in East- although does finished not grow fabrics under might climate have of reached Pannon- India ia at all province but finished along textile trade material routes. might Unfortunately, province use of cotton along trade fabric, routes. just like Unfortu- silk, have reached nately can only use demonstrated of cotton-cloth, by finds likewise from silk is AD only proved 4th century. by finds dating to 4th century. Spinning Purified The cleaned raw material raw material was combed was combed eir long eir laced long woollen laced thread wool was spooled on on distaff distaff or a or bundle a bundle of flax of was flax fixed was fixed onto it. onto Twisting Twisting wool or wool flax by or flax help with of a spindle, a held which in it. was held right in h, right produced h, so (Fig. as to 5) be yarn. converted Nyersanyagtól a szõttesig A NYERSANYAGOK A hagyományos római öltözék anyaga a gyapjúszövet és a lenvászon volt. Az aquincumi ábrázolásokon Pannonia éghajlatához igazodva gyakran láthatunk vastagabb, puhának tûnõ szövetekbõl varrt ruhákat, de elõfordul vékonyabb, finomabb kelme ábrázolása is. (4. kép) A legfontosabb alapanyag a gyapjú (lana) volt. Nemcsak az antik forrásokból, hanem a római kori gyapjútextíliák anyagvizsgálati eredményeibõl is tudjuk, hogy ekkorra már a juhtenyésztés is specializálódott. Rövid- és hosszú-, illetve vékony- és vastag szálú gyapjút adó fajtákat tenyésztettek ki, sõt ezeket gyakran keresztezték is egymással. Az idõsebb Plinius szerint a gyapjút juhnyíró ollóval nyírták, vagy a tavaszi vedlés idõszakában tépkedték 4. kép: Nyersanyagok (gyapjú, len, selyemgubók, gyapot) Fig. 4: Raw materials (wood, flax, silk, cotton) le az állatokról, minden nehézség és fájdalomokozás nélkül. A len (linum) a hidegebb, északabbi területeken is megterem. Már a rómaiak elõtt termesztették Pannonia területén. Szintén az idõsebb Plinius leírásából ismerjük a lenrostok elõkészítésének hosszú munkafolyamatát: a növényt vízbe áztatták, különbözõ törõeszközökkel törték, végül kifésülték belõle a pozdorjává tört, fölösleges anyagokat, és csak a hosszú, finom rostszálak maradtak. Luxusárunak számított a selyem (serica). Kínából, a Selyemúton érkezett a Római Birodalomba a fonál, vagy a már kész textília, melyet sokszor felbontottak, és olcsóbb lenfonállal keverve szõttek újra. Az irodalmi források szerint gazdag hölgyek ruhadarabjai is gyakran a cosi félselyembõl készültek. Pannoniából csak a 4. század elejérõl maradt fenn selyem textillelet. A selyemhez hasonlóan a gyapot (gossypium) is igen drága volt. A Kelet-Indiában õshonos növény Pannonia éghajlatán meg sem terem, de kereskedelmi útvonalakon a kész textília elérhette a provinciát. A selyemhez hasonlóan a pamutkelme használatát is csak 4. századi leletek bizonyítják. 12

13 FONÁS A megtisztított nyersanyagot kifésülték, a guzsalyra vagy a hosszú hurkába szedett gyapjút tekerték, vagy egy köteg lent kötöttek rá, s a jobb kézben fogott orsó segítségével sodorták fonallá. (5. kép) A római kori guzsaly (colus) legegyszerûbb fajtája egy kb centiméter hosszú, hengeres pálca volt. Az aquincumi guzsalyleletek nagy része csontból készült, az elõkelõ hölgyek viszont használtak bronztûre húzott, borostyánkõ gyöngyökbõl összeállított guzsalyt, vagy üvegbõl csavart díszesebb darabokat is. Az orsó (fusus) két részbõl állt: az orsópálca fából vagy csontból készült, a végére szorított orsógomb fából, agyagból, csontból vagy üvegbõl. Az orsógombok kissúlyúak voltak, tehát nem a lógatott orsó súlya és pörgetése adta a fonal sodratát, ahogy az ókori görög vázaképeken is látható, hanem az ujjak között forgatták az orsópálcát, melyen a könnyû gomb csak a fonal végének rögzítésére szolgált. Kõemlékeinken a kelta nõk gyakran tartanak bal kezükben guzsalyt, jobb kezükben orsót. (6. kép) Néhol a guzsalyra tekert gyapjú piros színe is látszik, tehát a gyapjúfonalat már a festett nyersanyagból készítették. (kat. 24.) Az elkészült fonál így S-sodratú lett, mely a textilleletek alapján a Római Birodalom európai részére volt jellemzõ. Délkelet- Európában és az Európán kívüli területeken a Z-sodratú fonás terjedt el, ahol a guzsalyt a jobb kézben tartották, míg az orsót a balban pörgették, így lett ellenkezõ irányú a fonál sodrata is. SZÖVÉS 5. kép: Orsó- és guzsalyleletek Fig. 5: Distaff- spool-finds Számunkra egyszerûnek, könnyûnek és gyorsnak tûnik a ruhák szabása, majd darabokból történõ összeállítása, varrása. A 17. századi ipari forradalom elõtt sokkal kevesebb textil készült, hosszabb ideig haszinto thread (Fig. 5) made yarn itself. The The simplest simplest kind kind of distaff of distaff (colus) (colus) of Roman from times Roman was merely times was an approximately simply a cm cm long long cylinder-like cylindrical baton. A Many great part distaffs of distaff-finds found in from Aquincum Aquincum were were made made from from bone. bone. Distinguisheguished ladies ladies on on or h also used used distaffs distaffs assembled from from amber amber beads beads pulled stacked onto a bronze a bronze pin or pin y or decorative applied more pieces festooned blown pieces from spun glass. of glass. Spool Spindle (fusus) whorls consisted (fusus) of consisted two parts: of two spool-baton parts: was spindle-baton made from was bone made or from wood bone while its or whorl wood being while pressed whorl, onto fitted near top one of it end, was made could from be made wood, from terracotta metal, wood, or glass. bone, Whorls terracotta little or in weight glass. The so it whorls was not weighed load very were spinning little so of it was hanging not spool load that gave spin of twist of hanging strings as spindle it is shown that gave on ancient twist Greek to vases. fibres as shown y on were ancient turning Greek spool-baton vases. On Conversely between contrary, ir fingers women on turned which spindle light button between simply ir fingers for fixing while end light of fibre. button was assured There re simply are Celtic to fix women end on of our fibres. stone remains often Celtic portrayed women as holding depicted distaff on stone in carvings left h are spool often in portrayed right holding one (Fig. a distaff 6). Sometimes in ir left red h colour of a wool-thread spindle in spun right onto (Fig. distaff 6). is showing Thus refore finished y yarn must would already have an have S-twist. made cloth This from was tinted particular raw to materials. European The completed parts of thread Roman became Empire. S-twisted In south-eastern this formation Europe was peculiar domains to European outside parts Europe, of where Roman Empire distaff finds was mselves held in are right providing h evidence spindle for as this spun fact. with On or left h h re use are of finds Z-twisted of spinning twisted spread yarn. all The over red in colour south-eastern of wool Europe being spun in shows domains that cloth outside must Europe have where been made distaff was from hold yarn in that right had h already while been spool dyed. was being turned in left h. This is why twist of thread Weaving has turned into of opposing direction as it originally The was. tailoring of clos, as we know it from recent dress making where pieces are Weaving assembled toger, seems swift easy. The Before tailoring industrial of clos revolution seems simple, of easy 17th swift century, as it were clearly in much case less of clothing later sewing was produced. Clos m from were elements. used for Evidently longer so assembling much much fewer better clothing care taken had of been it. Instead made before of tailoring, century clos were industrial woven revolution, in suitable that shapes people to 17th used create m a new for outfit. a longer time refore y praised During ir dresses AD much 1st century, better. in Instead European clothings part of were Roman woven to Empire, a suitable two kinds outline tailoring, when of vertical new dress loom was were created. used: warp-weighted During framed AD looms. 1st The centuries latter population loom was still used two considered kind of loom advanced in European in 1st part century of Roman Roman sources One of (e.g. m Seneca), was although so-called it is warp- ap- Empire. weighted parently loom, just as ancient or kind its was origins as framed loom. warp-weighed The latter loom. one was Celts yet called Romans new-fashioned presumably according knew to 1st both century types. Roman sources alike (e.g. The Seneca), vertical though threads it is ( apparently chain) on just warpweighted ancient looms of origin were as stretched warp-weighed taut using loom. as same The stone Celt or terracotta Roman weights alike presumably (Fig. 7). The knew both fabric types was of m. created in a top-to-bottom direction. vertical For this threads reason, (chain) women on always warp-weighted worked The loom were stretched by stone or terracotta bal- 13

14 az asszonyok állva dolgoztak. Ha a szövõszék magasságánál hosszabb szõttest akartak elkészíteni, akkor a láncfonalak folytatását a nehezékek köré tekerték, az elkészült textilt pedig a felsõ vízszintes rúdra csavarták fel. Az így készítõ szõttes hossza tehát akár többszöröse is lehetett a szövõszék magasságának. Az idõk folyamán a fa részek megsemmisültek, csak a nehezékek maradtak ránk. Aquincum környélasts (Fig. 7). Weaving itself was going along from sting. below When upward, y for wished this to reason weave a women cloth worked longer always n sting. height of When loom y y intended rolled to weave a chain-threads cloth longer n around height weights of loom was, y finished rolled material furrance was rolled of on chain-thread a horizontal upper weights rod. The length complete of cloth created material around was in rolled this way up to could horizontal be many upper times rod. length For this reason of height length of of a weavings loom. The which wooden could components in this of way looms might rotted be away multiple in course of be created height of time of a loom. only Wooden weights components have survived. of loom rotted The away reconstruction in course of of objects time on display only weights in our of museum m have is based come on down finds to from us. It a site is find in assemblages Budatétény near that Aquincum. have come to light in Budatétény As time nearby passed, Aquincum, stretching on basis func-otion of reconstruction loom weights of was objects taken on over display by a in which our lower museum horizontal was made. rod (Fig. 8). Just before As time Great passed Migration, stretching warps were function generally of loom weights rolled was around changed lower over by rod using or were lower fixed horizontal it by rod or (Fig. methods. 8). In The period cloth just was before created to Great in bottom-to-top Migration warps so were that generally weavers could beamed sit in such as a y way worked. that y The were finished rolled around part of fabric lower rod was or were rolled fixed on by or lower methods. rod which Weaving could be was going turned, downwards while so chain-thread by this time was weavers supplied could work by sitting. top The rod. woven Thus, any portion length of cloth of fabric were rolled could over be created lower on rod this which kind could of loom be turned, as while well. chain-thread Since framed was looms being were supplied made entirely from top of rod, wood refore no remains appropriate have been length preserved of fabric to could be be used created in an on archaeological this kind of investigation. loom as well. Since We framed have restored loom was one made on entirely basis of of contemporary any physical descriptions trace of this [e.g. instrument a fresco in left Au- use- wood not ful relius for archaeological hypogeum (Rome) investigation. a relief We from have restored Forum one after Nervae contemporaneous (Rome)]. descriptions e.g. a Weaving fresco in was Aurelius facilitated hypogeum with (Rome) help of a relief so-called heddle at Forum rods. Nervae Some (Rome). of threads Weaving were bound was proceeding to a long, horizontally by help of placed socalled movable heddle-rods. rod. At least Some two parts heddle of threads rods were were a e d g c f nálták, és így természetesen jobban meg is becsülték ezeket. Szabás helyett inkább megfelelõ formára szõtték a szövetet, ha új ruhát készítettek. A Római Birodalom európai részén kétféle típusú szövõszéket használtak a Kr. u. elsõ századokban. Az egyik az ún. nehezékes, a másik a keretes szövõszék. Utóbbit ugyan a Kr. e. 1. századi római források (pl. Seneca) még újmódinak nevezik, de valószínûleg ez is éppolyan õsi, mint a nehezékes. A kelták és a rómaiak feltehetõen mindkét szövõszéktípust ismerték. A nehezékes szövõszéken a függõleges (lánc) fonalakat kõ vagy agyag súlyok feszítették. (7. kép) A szövés alulról fölfelé haladt, ezért 6. kép: Orsót és guzsalyt tartó asszony kõábrázoláson (kat. 91.) és viseletének rekonstrukciója Fig. 6: Woman holding distaff spool depicted on a stone monument reconstruction of her clothing b 7-8. kép: Nehezékes (1) és keretes szövõszék (2) rekonstrukciók és legfontosabb részeik: a: felsõ henger, b: nyüstpálca, c: textília, d: szádnyílás, e: láncfonalak, f: alsó keresztrúd, g: nehezékek, h: alsó henger Fig. 7-8: Reconstruction of warp-weighted loom (1) two-beam vertical loom (2) ir most important parts: a: upper beam, b: heddle rods, c: textile, d: shed-hole, e: warp, f: lower crossbeam, g: weights, h: lower beam a b h c e f

15 kén, Budatétényen került elõ az a leletegyüttes, melynek alapján a kiállításon látható rekonstrukció készült. A keretes szövõszéken a nehezékek feszítõ szerepét az alsó vízszintes rúd veszi át. (8. kép) A láncfonalakat úgy vetették föl, hogy az alsó vízszintes rúd köré tekerték, vagy más módon rögzítették. A szövés fölülrõl lefelé haladt, így az asszonyok ülve szõhettek rajta. A megszõtt részt a forgatható, alsó rúdra tekerték, a láncfonalat pedig a felsõ hengerrõl adagolták, így ezen is megfelelõ hosszúságú textilt tudtak készíteni. Mivel a keretes szövõszék teljes egészében fából készült, így régészeti módszerekkel megfogható nyoma nem maradt. Korabeli ábrázolások alapján rekonstruáltuk. Pl.: falfestmény Aurelius hypogeumában (Róma), dombormû a forum Nervaen (Róma). A szövés az úgynevezett nyüstök segítségével történt. A hosszú, vízszintesen elhelyezett, mozgatható nyüstpálcákhoz hozzáhurkolták a láncfonalak egy-egy részét. A legegyszerûbb szõttes elõállításához is legalább két nyüst kellett. Az egyik nyüstpálcához sorrendben a páros számú, a másikhoz a páratlan számú láncfonalakat hurkolták (ez a vászonkötés). Háromnyüstös szövéskor ez annyiban változott, hogy az elsõ nyüstpálcához sorrendben minden elsõ láncfonalat (1., 4., 7., 10., stb.), a másodikhoz sorrendben minden másodikat (2., 5., 8., 11., stb.), a harmadikhoz pedig sorrendben minden harmadikat (3., 6., 9., 12., stb.) hurkolták hozzá. A négy- és többnyüstös szõttesnél legtöbbször u- gyanezt az eljárást használták, de a láncfonalak sorrendjének variációival bonyolultabb mintákat is szõttek. Ha az elsõ nyüstpálcát elõrehúzták, akkor ez a hozzáhurkolt láncfonalakat is magával húzta, míg a többi a helyén maradt. Így a fonalsíkok szöget zártak be, ez a szádnyílás, melyen keresztül átvezették a vízszintes vetülékfonalat. Majd egy úgynevezett szövõkarddal, vagy fésûvel erõsen bele is verték a láncfonalak közé, végül a nyüstöt visszaengedték, tehát a szádnyílás becsukódott, a láncfonalak mind egy síkba kerültek. Ha most egy másik nyüstpálcát húztak elõre, az elõzõleg bevezetett fonal elmozdíthatatlanná vált, a vetülékfonalat pedig áthúzták az új szádnyíláson. A kevés ránkmaradt textillelet alapján a lenvásznakat és a pamutvásznakat általában vászonkötéssel és két nyüsttel szõtték. A pannoniai sírköveken ritkán jelzik a szõttesek mintáját. A Magyar Nemzeti Múzeumban õrzött egyik sírkövön (MNM ) a kelta viseletû nõalak ruhájának szoknyarészébe azonban belekarcoltak egy függõleges cikk-cakk-mintát. Ez valószínûleg az úgynevezett fenyõágas minta jelzése, melyet négynyüstös technikával szõttek. SZÖVÕKÁRTYA, SZÖVÕTÁBLÁCSKA, SPRANG Az aquincumi sírköveken a katonaköpenyek szélén néha vastagabbra faragott csíkot látunk. A textília kezdõcsíkját ábrázolták, melyet feltehetõleg nehezékes szövõszéken, szövõkártyákkal készítettek el. (9. kép) A Római Birodalom területén számos lelõhelyrõl (pl. Britannia, Germania) ismerjük a szövõkártyák variánsait: háromszög, vagy négyszög alakú, csontból vagy fából készült, három vagy négy lyukkal ellábond to long, horizontally placed movable heddle-rods. needed to There create was needed simplest at fabric. least two Odd heddle-rods numbered for creating warp threads simplest were looped weaving. onto Odd numbered first threads heddle were rod in looped sequence to first even of heddle-rod numbered in warp sequence, threads even were numbered looped threads onto to second (this one (it is is called called cross-fabric). When When weaving with three or heddle-rods more heddle this method rods, changed method as it went follows: as follows: each first each thread first in sequence thread was in looping sequence to was first looped heddle-rod to (1., 4., first 7., heddle 10 etc.) rod while (for three each second heddle rods thread 1, in sequence 4, 7, 10 to etc.) second while heddle-rod each second (2., thread 5., 8., in 11 etc.). As sequence for was third looped thread, to each second third of heddle-rod sequence (2, was 5, looping 8, 11 etc.). to As third for heddle-rod third m in (3., thread, 6., 9., each 12 etc.). third They one in wove fabrics sequence with was four or looped even more to heddle-rods third heddle-rod applied (3, 6, 9, 12 same process etc.) as so a rule, on. More but sophisticated y wove much patterns more sophisticated could be produced patterns by by changing sequence of of chain-threads threads in lots in many of ir variations. When When first first heddle-rod rod was was pulled ahead forward it also it brought also brought forth threads forward looped warp to threads itself while looped or to it ones while remained rest in remained ir own in place. Thus, planes planes of thread of have warp produced thread lay angles at an with angle each or, to each this is or, called thus shed-hole creating a shed. horizontal The weft-thread horizontal was weft pulled thread throughout was pulled this. through Afterwards y shed. even Afterwards hit strongly a weaver s among chain-threads comb was by pulled using a through weaver s comb warp heddle-rod rod was letting was back released in closing end affecting shed. This shed-hole way all to be closed. warp In threads this manner are put all back in chain-threads same got plane. into When same y plane. pulled When anor just this heddle time rod y pulled forward forth anor inserted heddle-rod weft thread became fibre immovable became weft not to could be moved be pulled at all through weft- inlaid formerly thread new was pulled shed. through Cotton cross-fabric new shed-hole was again generally (Fig. 9). produced By using using two two heddle-rods rods y generally as can be wove seen cotton-cloths from very producing rare surviving crossfabric finds as of we fabric. have deduced from very rare fabric-finds Weaving survived. patterns are not usually depicted They on grave commonly steles in did Pannonia. not describe However, patterns re of weaving is one stone monument most gravestones displayed in Pannonia. Hungarian on National one of Museum stone monuments (MNM. 97. displayed Though in 2) portraying Hungarian a National woman Museum dressed (MNM. in Celtic style 2.) with re a vertical is a Celtic zigzag dressed pattern woman incised portrayed into skirt a vertical part of zigzag her attire. pattern This is might shown scratched represent into so-called skirt-part pine-branched of her attire. pattern be which sign is woven of using so-called four heddle pine-branched rods. This might pattern woven by four heddle-rods technique. Loom cards, Loom tablets Sprang Loom-card, A stripe Loom-tablet carved to be thicker Sprang can sometimes be gravestones seen in Aquincum edge of we upper can gar- some- On times ments find depicted a stripe on carved grave to steles be thicker from Aquincum. of These greatcoats. represent They depicted hem which starting was on hem streak probably on a cloth made of with which loom model cards was (Fig. most probably Variations prepared of with loom loom-cards have on been a heavy found loom 9). (Fig. in numerous 10). We places know variations throughout of loom-cards whole found Roman in numerous Empire (e.g. locations Britannia, of finds Germania). in territory These of are whole triangular Roman or Empire rectangular (e.g. Britannia, tablets Germania). with three These or four are holes triangular in m. or They rectangular can shaped be made lamellas from with bone three or wood or four holes may be on tri- m made from bone or wood. At same time y 15

16 used loom-cards of same shape measure. These angular were or hold square toger with three along or by four ir holes edges in m. one Usually, one thread loom cards was pulled of same through shape each row of size holes are card used. by A single card, n thread threads was pulled were exped through horizontally. each hole. The Cards distance were hold between toger holes warp-thread creates a shed. was To directed weave, through warpthread is created directed in this through way, n shed. cards If were shed-hole turned cards away were by turned 90 degree. 90 degrees, The former shed-hole former closed shed-hole a new was one closed opened a through new one which opened weft was through conducted which back. weft is brought back. We There know are three three types types of Celtic of Celtic women s women s ribbon-belts ribbon described belts represented on gravestones. grave One steles. of m is a One plain is variant a plain that variant was likely that was woven likely on woven ribbonweaving on ribbon-weaving tablets (Cat. tablets 11). Such (Fig. a 10). tablet Such made a from tablet, bronze made has of come bronze, to life was from found a late in a Roman Late grave Roman in Pilismarót grave in (Castra Pilismarót Ad (Castra Herculem). Ad Herculem). long Long vertical vertical lines slots through were this cut rectangu- into They pierced lar- rectangular shaped tablet tablet between a row se of holes ones, was perpendicularly pierced between to ir m, midpoint perpendicular a row of holes to ir were also midpoint. pierced. A One single thread one was threads laced were into each laced into opening each opening hole hole more were were added exped hori- horizontally as as well. When tablet was was pulled upwards upwards chain-threads warp threads in in holes holes toger toger ones with in ones openings which slots which were were left in with ir left place, in ir formed place formed a shed-hole a shed-hole through through which weft-thread which was weft guided thread back was (Fig. guided 11). (Fig. Geometric Geometrically patterned ribbon-belts patterned were ribbon created belts were in 10). same way, too but colour of each single weft 10. kép: Szövõtáblácska rekonstrukciója Fig. 10: Reconstruction of a loom-tablet 9. kép: Szövõkártyák rekonstrukciója Fig. 9: Reconstruction of loom-cards tott lapocskák. Egyszerre csak egyforma méretû és formájú kártyákat használtak. Élüknél összefogták, minden lyuksorba kártyánként egy-egy láncfonalat vezettek, majd a fonalakat vízszintesen kifeszítették. A kártyákat öszszefogták és az így képzett szádnyílásba vezették a vetülékfonalat, ezután az öszszefogott kártyákat 90 -kal elfordították. Az elõzõ szádnyílás bezárult és egy új nyílott ki, melyen keresztül a vetülékfonalat visszavezették. Sírtáblákon találkozunk a kelta asszonyok szalagövével, melynek három típusát ismerjük. Az egyik a sima változat, melyet valószínûleg szalagszövõ táblácskán szõttek. (kat. 11.) Ilyen, bronzból készült szövõtáblácska Castra Ad Herculem (Pilismarót) késõrómai temetõjébõl került elõ. Ebbe a téglalap alakú táblába hosszú, függõleges nyílásokat vágtak, közéjük pedig egy vonalba, középre lyukakat fúrtak. Minden nyílásba és minden lyukba egy-egy láncfonalat vezettek, melyeket szintén vízszintesen feszítettek ki. Ha a táblácskát fölfelé húzták, akkor a lyukakban lévõ láncfonalak a nyílásban lévõ láncfonalakkal (melyek eredeti helyükön maradtak) szádnyílást alkottak, melyen áthúzták a vetülékfonalat. Ezután a táblát lefelé nyomták, így az eredeti síkhoz képest alul képzõdött a szádnyílás, itt vezették vissza a vetülékfonalat. (10. kép) A geometrikus mintájú szalagöv is így készült, azonban itt a felvetõ láncfonalak mindegyike más-más színû lehetett. A harmadik fajta szalagöv két hosszanti szélén magasabbra szõtt sáv fut végig, itt valószínûleg a kártyás és a táblácskás módszereket együtt használták. (kat. 109.) A nemzetközi terminológiában sprangnak [szprang] (magyarul: fonott csipke) nevezett õsi textiltechnika egyes hagyományõrzõ vidékeken még a közelmúltig is gyakorlatban volt. A sprangnál a láncfonalat két, rögzített, párhuzamos rúd között feszítették ki, ezeket a rudacskákat egy fakerez erõsítették. A láncfonalat nyolcas alakban tekerték a két rúd köré, ezután a szövõ minden segédeszköz nélkül, az ujjait a bölcsõjátékhoz hasonlóan mozgatva bonyolult fonadékot készített az egyetlen folytatólagos szálból. Amikor ez már annyira szoros lett, hogy tovább már nem volt fonható, középen egy átbújtatott fonallal rögzítették. (11. kép) Ezzel a módszerrel készítették a görög nõk hajhálójukat; ábrázolásait számos vázaképen láthatjuk. Az õsi római hagyomány szerint az eladósorban lévõ lánynak saját 16

17 kezûleg kellett megszõnie menyasszonyi ingjét és hajhálóját. Hajhálót néha a matrónák is viseltek: egy 2. századi britanniai bronzportrén és egy aquincumi kõábrázoláson pontos részletei is megállapíthatóak. A késõrómai és bizánci fõkötõk egy része is így készült. Egy Szentendrérõl származó sírkövön olyan rugalmas, elasztikus anyagból készült fõkötõ ábrázolása látható, amely a kontyos fej formáját követi. Lehetséges, hogy ez is sprang-technikával készült. (kat. 44.) KALLÓZÁS, NEMEZELÉS A kallózás a római korban fejlett iparág volt. Több nagyobb kallózómûhely maradt meg Pompejiben, az egyik épületben talált falfestmény pedig a munkafolyamatot is ábrázolja. A vastag gyapjútextileket (szappan hiányában) emberi, illetve állati vizelettel vagy nátronnal kevert vízben mosták, fõzték, taposták, illetve nagy présekben préselték. A kallózás fõ célja az, hogy vízhatlanná tegye a szövetet, bár így a textil egyúttal kissé merevvé is válik. Az egyik férfiköpenyt (paenula) is valószínûleg ezzel az eljárással készítették. A nemezkészítés nem azonos a kallózással, vizes gyapjútincsek lappá préselésébõl áll. Így készítették a sisakokban és cipõkben használt béléseket. Sírkõábrázolásainkon a kelta asszonyok nagy, gömb alakú fõkötõje valószínûleg formákon készített nemezkalap lehetett. (kat. 2.) Nemcsak Pompejiben tömörültek egyesületbe (collegium) a kallózók és a textilfestõk. Több aquincumi felirat is bizonyítja, (kat. 23.) hogy városunkban is collegiumot alkottak a posztósok. A collegium mûködése a 2. század elejétõl a 3. század végéig, 4. század elejéig követõ. could likely be differing. As for third kind of ribbon-belt created in a b same was way, running but along colour of two longitudinal each individual end of weft it differed. woven to As be for higher third methods kind of with ribbon-belt, cards a b tablets ran along were probable two used longitudinal toger in ends this case needed (Fig.109) to be woven This higher, ancient probably weaving using cards technique tablets called toger. in multinational terminology, that is sprang spun The lace, ancient has generally weaving been technique sprang, used in numerous countries that is spun keeping lace, has ir been traditions used until until recently recent times. in many With countries sprang which chain-thread have kept was ir exped traditional two crafts. parallel With bars sprang se were technique, bond to between a wooden warp threads frame. were Chain-thread exped was between rolled around two parallel two bars in bound eight-forms, to a wooden n frame. Warp weaver without thread any was helping rolled around aid by moving two bars her in fingers figure-eight to forms. that of The weaver cradle-game n moved created her a similarly complicated fingers similarly plexus to out of cradle-game, a single running creating thread. When a complicated this spinning plexus became out of a such single tight running that it could thread. not When be continued this spinning anymore, became a thread so tight was slipped that it through could not be centre continued any fixed longer, it. Greek a women thread created was slipped ir hair-lace through its with centre this method to fix it. as it can Greek be seen women on -paintings made hair nets of great which number can of vases. be seen According on many to vases ancient this Roman way. According traditions a girl to of Roman age tradition, to marry a had girl to of weave marriageable her own bridal age skirt had to weave hair-lace. her In own some bridal cases skirt hair-lace was hair worn net. by In some matrons cases, too, hair for nets example were also exact details worn can by be matrons. figured out Details on a can Briton be bronze-portrait on dated a bronze to portrait 2nd century from Britain on dated a descrip- to observed tion of AD a stone 2nd century monument from on a Aquincum. stone monument of Byzantine from Aquincum. late Some Roman Byzantine bonnets was One part made Late in Roman same bonnets way, eir. were made There in can be same seen a description of a bonnet on a gravestone deriving from Szentendre which was made from an 11. kép: Sprang-technikával készült textília Fig. 11: Textile made with sprang-technique 17

18 elastic flexible fabric tracing outline of a head way. with A bun-hair. depiction This of a remain bonnet could made possibly from an be woven elastic by sprang-technique flexible fabric as following well (Fig. 44). outline of a head with a bun can be seen on Milling a grave stele felting from Szentendre. This bonnet Milling may also was have a developed been made industrial using branch sprang during technique Roman times. (Fig. 44). A lot of smaller or greater milling-workshop has survived in Pompeii a wall-painting Milling found felting one of buildings is depicting Milling even was a process well developed of work. industry In water mixed in Roman with native times. soda Many or animal milling urineas workshops y had not of any various soapthick sizes woollen have survived material in Pompeii. was being washed, A fresco boiled, found treaded, in one of pressed buildings in pinches. even However, depicts main manufacturing goal of milling process. is that it Thick should make woollen cloth to material be waterproof was washed, though in boiled, this way fabric kneaded, turns a bit rigid pressed as a in result. small One kind folds of in man-gowns water mixed (paenula) with local were soda likely or animal created urine. with this The method. main goal of such milling was to make Making cloth felt is waterproof not identical although to milling, as fabric it consists tends of pressing to become watery a bit woollen rigid as curls a result. to be One flat plates. kind Interlinings of male cloak used (paenula) in shoes was most helmets likely were made produced this way. in this way. On our gravestones in Aquincum Making re felt is are not descriptions same as milling of globe like since bonnets it consists Celtic of matting women wool whose fibres hats might toger. likely made Linings from in shoes a felt on wooden helmets forms were made (Cat. this 2) Milling way. On workers grave steles textile-painters from Aquincum gared Celtic into women associations are shown (collegium) wearing not globe-like only in Pompeii. bonnets which inscriptions may have found been in made Aquincum from prove felt Numerous that moulded felt-makers on wooden were forms also formed (Cat. 2) collegiums here. The Milling existence workers of this kind dyers of belonged collegium to can be detectable associations from (collegium). beginning Numerous of 2nd inscriptions until end found of in 4th Aquincum beginning show that of felt century AD manufacturers 4th century. were organized re into a collegium. The existence of this kind of collegium can be traced from beginning of AD 2nd century until end of AD 3rd beginning of 4th century. ANTIK FORRÁSOK/ANTIQUE REFERENCES: CIL IV 1507 Homérosz: Odüsszeia. X, Martialis: Epgrammák. Költõ és milliomos. VI, 93 Ovidius: Fasti. III, ; Átváltozások. VI, Petronius: Satyricon. XXXVIII; LXIII Plinius: Naturalis Historiae. IV, 62; VIII, ; XII, 30; XIX, 16-18; XXVIII, 66 és 91 Propertius: Elégiák. I, 2, 1-2; II, 1, 5-6. Seneca: De benef. VII, 9, 5; Suetonius: Caesarok élete. Caligula 52 Tibullius: Elégiák. I, 6, Varro: A mezõgazdaságról. II, 2, Vergilius: Aeneis. VII, 5-9. MODERN IRODALOM/MODERN REFERENCES: Barkóczi L.: Késõrómai temetõ Pilismaróton. In: Folia Archaeologica XII (1960) p Behrens, G.: Brettchenweberei in römischer Zeit. In: Germania IX, p Broudy, E.: The Book of Looms. A History of Hloom from Ancient Times to Present. Hanover, p CIBA Rundschau. Textilien in biblischer Zeit. 1968/2. p Coarelli a Rocca De Vos: Pompeji. Archäologischer Führer. Augsburg, p ; ; ; ; ; 412 Hoffmann, M.: The Warp-Weighted Loom Madarassy O.: Házmunka.: a textilkészítés példája. Aquincum. In: Aquincum Augusta Raurica. Élet a Római Birodalom két városában. Kiállításvezetõ. Basel, p Nappo, S. C.: Pompeji. Az eltemetett város. Vercelli-Budapest, p Németh M. Topál J.: Verses szarkofág mumifikált temetkezéssel. In: Budapest Régiségei 27 (1991) p Szilágyi J.: Tûzvédelem Aquincumban és a római birodalom más városaiban. In: Tûzoltó Múzeum Évkönyve p Szirmai K.: Beszámoló a budatétényi római kori telep feltárásáról II. ( ) In: Budapest Régiségei 26. (1984) p Szirmai K.: Kaiserzeitliche Porträts in Aquincum. Budapest, p. 46. kat. 26. Wild, J. P.: Roman Textiles from Walbrook (London). In: Germania 53 (1975) p

19 A római hölgy A Birodalom minden szabadon született római polgára viseletében is demonstrálta jogállását, az asszonyok a római matrona hagyományos öltözékét hordták. Az antik szerzõk többször említik a ruhadarabok sorrendjét, s viselésük szigorú illemszabályait. A tunica [tunika] fölé a stola [sztóla] került, erre a palla, hajukba pedig vittaet [vitté] (azaz szalagot, vagy fonalszálakat) kötöttek. Fehérnemûként a testre az ágyék és a mell köré kendõket tekertek (subligaculum [szubligakulum], stophium [sztófium], indusium [indúzium]) vagy kis nadrágot, esetleg fûzõt is hordtak. Erre egy rövid inget, a tunicát vették föl, az ábrázolásokon ennek csak szegélye látszik ki a felsõruha nyakkivágásánál. (kat. 90.) Színe általában fehér volt, szélét azonban néha hímzés vagy szõttescsík díszítette. A tunica fölé egy hosszú, a lábfejeket fedõ ruhát, a stolát öltötték. Õsi formáját a vállon pántok tartották (ez a típus Pannoniában valószínûleg nem terjedt el), de késõbb a ruha elejét és hátát egyszerûen öszszevarrták. Ezt a változatot a nyakkivágás sarkainak vonalában két függõleges, keskeny csík is díszítte, melyeket beleszõttek, vagy rávarrtak a textíliára. (kat. 102.) A stolának volt rövid és hosszú ujjú változata is, (kat. 52.) mellük alatt zsinórral vagy szalagövvel kötötték meg. A ruhadarab alsó, földet söprõ részét belül erõsebb és olcsóbb anyagcsíkkal bélelték. Ezt a szegélyt ki is tömték, hogy tartást adjon és védje a ruhaanyagot. (kat. 72., kat. 77.) A stolára egy téglalap alakú, palástot, a pallát terítették. Mérete a rekonstrukciós kísérletek szerint 1,5 méter széles és legfeljebb 5 méter hosszú lehetett. A római nõ úgy tekerte magára, hogy nem rögzítette tûkkel és brossokkal, hanem kezével fogta. (kat. 64.) Házát elhagyva fejét is befedte a pallával, ettõl viszont teljesen független volt csak a fej fedésére szolgáló, könnyû kis fátyol. (kat. 65.) Az aquincumi sírköveken ábrázolt asszonyok pallájuk bal végét elõször bal vállukról lelógatták, a másik végét pedig a hátukra terítve jobb válluk felett elõrevezetve a bal vállukra dobták, ez a palla klasszikus viselete. (kat. 47.; kat. 72.) A 3. század folyamán a palla szélét gyakran szövött csíkkal díszítették, ez a minta az ábrázolásokon is felismerhetõ. A mérete valószínûleg rövidebb és keskenyebb lett, viselése is módosult, a késõi divatú pallát a hátra terítették, két végét a vállakat eltakarva elõl a könyökhajlaton átvezetve lelógatták (kat. 44.; kat. 48.) vagy elõl összefogták. A palla anyaga az éghajlatnak megfelelõen lehetett vékonyabb vagy vastagabb és viselõjének társadalmi helyzetétõl függõen olcsóbb vagy drágább. (12. és 13. kép) A hagyományõrzõbbek ragaszkodtak a gyapjúviselez, de Ovidius versei alapján tudjuk, hogy a divatos selymet a császári tilalmak ellenére is hordták. Pompeji faliképeken egészen áttetszõ selyempallákat is láthatunk. Az ünnepi viselet legkedveltebb színei a vörös, a bordó és a lila különbözõ árnyalatai voltak. A színharmónia fontos volt a római divat- The The Roman Roman Lady lady As each freeborn man in territory of Roman As each Empire freeborn could man also in demonstrate Roman by Empire way of could dressing show up his his social state position of law rank rank, women through were his wearing dress, ir so traditional women costume wore of a traditional Roman matron. costume The of a sequence Roman matron. of pieces The of clos order of individual rigorous pieces convention of clothing of dressing rules rigorous have been dress mentioned conventions on frequent have been occasions. commented The first piece on frequently of clos in y literature. took on was tunica, stola For undergarments, followed next, indusium women wrapped was placed a cloth onto this, around ir putting body, on over palla ir finished loins breasts whole ensemble. or else y Finally wore y small knotted underpants, vittae (that perhaps is ribbon) even or a fabric-fibres corset. Over into this ir y hair. put a tunica, a short As an shirt, under-clothing from which y only wrapped hem below shawls (subligaculum, neck hole of stophium, over-garment indusium) is shown around on ir depictions body, over (Cat. 90). loin It was chest generally or y white wore small but sometimes panties or perhaps its edges even were a corset. decorated They with took on embroidery tunica, a or short a b. skirt on this piece of which merely A long hem stola is reaching showing just on descriptions above ir feet from below was worn neckhole over of tunica. overgarment An older variant (Cat. was 90). Its fastened colour on was generally shoulders with white clasps but (this sometimes type embroidery was probably or a not b known of weaving in Pannonia) ornamented but later, its edge. front back sides were simply sewn toger. They took This on type above of stola tunica might a long have stola also covering been decorated ir forefeet. with two Its ancient thin vertical variant stripes was in held line by bs with over corners ir shoulders of neck (this hole type woven was probably into or not sewn known onto in Pannonia) fabric (Cat. but 102). later, on The stola front had a short-sleeved back side of it were a long-sleeved simply sewn variants toger. (Cat. This 52). variation They might could have be tied also with been twine ornamented or a ribbon by two belt thin below vertical breast. streaks, On in line inner of side, corners of lower neck-hole part which woven swept in or sewn ground onto was lined fabric with (Cat.102). a stronger Stola had cheaper short-sleeved b of material. longsleeved This hem variants was stuffed too (Cat. to make 52) edge y firm were tied with protect a twine it (Cat. or 71 a ribbon-belt Cat. 77). under chest. Inside, A rectangular lower parts mantle, of clothing palla, sweeping was draped ground over was stola. interlined According by a to stronger reconstruction cheaper experiments, it may material-stripe. This have hem been was 1.5 also m stuffed wide so as to nearly give 5 holding m long. to A Roman piece woman of clos would have to defend wrapped it (Cat. it over 71 herself Cat. in such 77). a way that she held A rectangular-shaped end of palla mantle, in one h palla instead was laid of fastening on stola. it with According a brooch or to a pin. reconstruction On leaving home, she experiments its measure covered her might head have with been palla 1,5 m wide although by very she nearly may also 5 m have long. worn A Roman a small woman light wrapped veil (Cat. it over 65). herself Women in shown such a on way Aquincum that she was grave holding steles first end let of left palla end of by ir one palla h instead hang from of fixing ir it left with shoulder. breast-pins They n needles. drew On it across leaving ir her house backs she was guided covering or her end head by over palla ir but right she shoulder. used yet Finally, a little light y veil cast separately, it onto ir which left was shoulder; topping this her is head classic solely way (Cat. 65). to wear Women a palla described (Cat. 47; on Cat. gravestones 48). During of Aquincum AD first 3rd let century, left end edges of ir of palla palla hang were from ir frequently left shoulder. decorated Then with while woven laying bs. it on This ir back pattern y can guided easily forth be distinguished or end on over depictions. ir right shoulder Later it probably cast it on became ir left shorter shoulder in thinner end: this even is classic way it wearing was worn of changed. palla (Cat. The palla 47 Cat. of 48). late During Roman period AD was 3rd pulled century behind wearer s back with its two ends 19

20 ban: a világosabb színû stolához általában sötétebb árnyalatú pallát öltöttek. A legnépszerûbb együttesek: bordó-bordó, lila-lila, vörös-vörös, illetve fehér vagy a sárga az elõbb említett színekkel, de elõfordul a kék és a zöld szín is. A barna és a fekete ábrázolása ritkább, valószínûleg azért, mert ezek voltak a gyász színei. Aquincumi sírkõábrázolásokon sárga stola - vörös palla, vörös stola - vörös palla (kat. 52.) összeállításokat láthatunk. Textilleleteink viszont általában sötét színûek, sötétbíbor, sötétlila, barna, sötétkék, sõt majdnem fekete textilmaradványt is ismerünk 4. századi aquincumi sírokból. Az ókorban nem volt külön gyermekdivat, a kislányok ugyanúgy öltöztek, mint anyjuk. Állami és vallási ünnepeken az elõkelõ családból származó serdületlen fiúk és lányok egyaránt a toga praetextát [tóga prétekszta], vagyis a bíborszegélyû togát viselték. (kat. 4.) A gyermekek hétköznapi ruhája a lányoknál egy hosszabb, a fiúnál egy rövidebb tunica volt, melyre hûvösebb idõben köpeny került. Sok sírkövön ilyen, az anya pallájához hasonló köpenyben ábrázolják a kislányokat. A sírkövek alsó tábláján a halottak portéi alatt kifaragott ún. áldozati jeleneteken az élõk áldozatot visznek a halottaknak. Itt az asszonyo ends of palla were frequently adorned by covering shoulders hanging down woven stripes this pattern can easily be distinguished on descriptions. Its material possibly over elbows or held toger in front. The thickness of palla material depended on climate its cost on owner s became shorter thinner even its way of wearing was modified palla of late Roman times social status. Traditionalists wore wool but was laid behind back two ends of it covering shoulders over elbows in front from Ovid s poems we know that despite Emperor s strict ban, fashionable silk was in were let hang down or were held toger in general use (Fig. 13 Fig. 14.) front. The most popular colours for festive costumes were red, purple various shades of The material of palla in relation to climate might have been thinner or thicker depending violet. Harmony of colour was very important in her owner s social status cheaper or more expensive. Traditionalists claimed to woollen attire but Roman fashion: a light stola was commonly used with a palla in a darker shade of same colour. in accordance with Ovid s poems we know that The favourite combinations were purple with despite Emperor s strict bans fashionable silk purple, violet with violet, red with red white was in general use (Fig. 13 Fig. 14.) or yellow with aforementioned colours. Blue The most favoured colours of festive costume green were also customary. Use of brown or were red, purple various shades of violet. black was exceptional, probably because se Harmony of colours was very important in Roman were also colours of mourning. One can see fashion: a lighter coloured stola was commonly 12. kép: Elõkelõ római hölgy (kat. 100.) és viseletének rekonstrukciója Fig. 12: Statue??? of a Roman lady (Cat 100) clothing reconstruction 13. kép: Római hölgy (kat. 20.) és viseletének rekonstrukciója Fig. 13: Stele??? of a Roman lady (Cat 20) clothing reconstruction 20